BASICS
The classical approach to maximizing eye shaping techniques
uses only 3 simple words: light, medium and dark. That is
light, medium and dark eyeshadows. To start, select an eyeshadow
in a medium shade because this color will serve as a base
color and as a reference color in selecting your light and
dark color. The medium color can range from pale to deep shades
depending on the type of eyes you want to create. The dark
color is commonly known as the contour color while the lightest
color is called the highlight color. The overall effect of
the three colors of eyeshadows working together will help
to create the illusion of depth and projection when applied
to specific areas around the eyes.
Now, for corrective eye shaping, eyeshadow needs to work
together with eyeliner and mascara to achieve the various
effects that we will take you through step-by-step. You may
also use a dark shadow in place of an eye pencil as a liner.
The diagram below will show you various parts of the eye
that we will be talking about for creating the ultimate eyes
to die for.
EYE SHAPING FOR SMALL EYES
Objective
To create the illusion
of a larger eye by concentrating color on the outer portion
of the eye
Shadow
steps
Sweep the medium-toned eyeshadow on upper lid up
to the crease.
Apply the contour shade (dark eyeshadow) at the
outer 1/3 of the crease.
Add highlight (light eyeshadow) just under the brow's
arch.
Keep eyebrows well groomed to open up more eye area.
Don'ts
Avoid applying the dark colors over the lid as that
will make eyes appear "closed-in".
Avoid lining inner rim of the eyes, as it tends
to make eyes look smaller.
EYE SHAPING FOR ROUND EYES
Objective
To lengthen appearance
of the eyes by using a more linear, horizontal emphasis.
Shadow
steps
Apply medium eyeshadow over the whole lid.
Apply the contour shade along the crease, extending
it slightly at the outer corner of the eyes.
Add highlight under the brow's outer third portion.
Apply the eyeliner, beginning at the eye's inner
corner and lining the full length of the upper lid.
Extend outwards and upwards at the end.
Use mascara on top lashes only, concentrating on
the outer half of the eye.
Keep color on the upper lid to "cut" the
circular in half.
Don'ts
Avoid traditional
eyelash curlers as they emphasize the roundness of the
eye. Try a corner curler to create the illusion of length
more effectively.
EYE SHAPING FOR VANISHING EYE LIDS
Objective
To create emphasis and
depth for eyes that have no natural crease.
Shadow
steps
Sweep medium-toned eyeshadow from lash to brow bone.
Concentrate the darkest shade just above crease.
Blend and fade towards the brow.
Highlight the brow bone.
Apply liner at the lash line and sweep color over
the outer two thirds of upper lid.
Curl lashes first to open up the eyes before applying
mascara to lashes on upper lid.
Stay with deep, neutral tones and blend well to
avoid obvious lines.
Keep eyebrows well groomed and off the brow bone.
Don'ts
Don't try to create a crease where none exists.
Use contour color for enhancement instead.
Heavy black eyeliner tends to close off the eye.
If you are using cake or liquid liner, keep lines
thin and precise.
